Although one of the missions of this journey is to highlight wineries and winemakers who are often overlooked by the wine consumer, it is impossible to ignore the area that is synonymous with American winemaking, Napa Valley, I have been fortunate to visit this region many times over the last ten years and I have had the privilege of touring many of the wineries, large and small, often visiting with the winemakers and hosting several of them for wine dinners at Riverbend and during the Kohler Food and Wine Experiences held every October.
So in returning to Napa I wanted to take a slightly different approach and explore the old and the new, and find out what has changed and what has stayed the same in this historic region.
What better place to start, therefore, than Napa Valley's first winery, Charles Krug, which was established in 1861? It is named after the Prussian immigrant who was likely the first European to recognize the potential of Napa Valley for growing grapes, and was acquired 67 years ago by the family whose name is, and probably will always be associated with American wines, Mondavi.
Peter Sr. and Robert Mondavi are the sons of Cesare Mondavi who was an Italian immigrant and purchased the Charles Krug Winery in 1943. The brothers worked at the winery, Peter as Vice President and Robert as GM until a bitter and well publicized feud split them apart, with Robert leaving the company and setting up his own winery down the valley, ostensibly out of spite. The family divisions have continued in some form to this day, but Charles Krug Winery is still very much controlled by the Peter Mondavi family (Peter Senior is in his 90s, Robert died in 2008), with Peter's sons Marc and Peter Jr. both taking active roles in its ongoing development and direction. In 2000, they embarked on a 10-year program to replant most of the vineyards they own (about 850 acres) and they have embraced the concepts of sustainable farming, following their grandfather's philosophy that if you treat the wine with respect it will show in the wine.
I was lucky to taste many of the current releases of Charles Krug yesterday, guided by Candace and Jim at the lovely, understated (by Napa standards) tasting room at the winery in St. Helena. I elected to taste only the wines that are available for general release, although they also have some reserve selections that are only available at the winery to visitors. Marc Mondavi was a presenter at last year's Kohler Food and Wine Experience and although I had an opportunity to meet with him, I was unable to attend the seminar he conducted. So the wines were quite a revelation! From 2010 Sauvignon Blanc and 2007 Zinfandel (there it is again!) made with grapes grown right at the winery, to 2009 Chardonnay and 2008 Pinot Noir from Carneros fruit, to the deeply rich, smoky 2008 Caberbet Sauvignon (made from Napa grapes) and red-fruit dominated Merot and finally the beguiling 2008 "Generations" a Bordeaux-style blend that is created and approved each year by "the family", these wines are indeed worthy of the heritage that the Mondavi family has created and the history that it has imparted in The Valley.
From the old, I moved to the new. Along Route 29, on the west side of the valley, lies so many wineries that it is almost intoxicating in itself. But I noticed a name that is relatively new and that I had not visited before, Alpha Omega. Only 5 years old, this is one of Napa's newest boutique wineries. It is a partnership between owners Robin Baggett (who also owns Tolosa Winery in San Luis Obispo) and Eric Sklar (a Napa grower with 30 years experience), together with Jean Hoefliger, a Swiss who has made wines for such exalted names as Bordeaux Chateau Lynch-Bages and Chateau Carbonnieux and South Africa's Meerlust, and renowned wine consultant/superstar, Frenchman, Michel Rolland. This unlikely menage a quatre is creating wines that are quite simply spectacular! I tasted four as part of their regular winery offering. The 2010 (new vintage) Sauvignon Blanc is made from grapes right outside the winery. These are the only grapes that actually are grown here as the flat valley was described to me as being almost like a swamp - not good for other grapes, but excellent for Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is an entrancing combination of Bordeaux-style SB, with roundness and fruit, combined with the higher acidity you would find in a Sancerre or a New Zealand example. Wonderful wine. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is a special wine, but at $84 a bottle it should be. It has highly extracted fruit, soft tannins and heady aromas that would be wonderful with red meats or game. The 2007 Proprietary Red is, to my palate, even more refined, but no less expensive at $86 per bottle. The company's tasting notes mention "black currant, oak, pine, milk chocolate, cigar box, raspberry, blueberry and jasmine with touches of rosemary and chalk" Wow! Honestly, these are the kind of things that put wine tasters off. How can all those aromas be present in ONE wine? Personally I think it is a little silly, however I do smell the characteristic cigar-box and some blackcurrant.
After the official tasting, the personable representative took me into the cellar to taste their signature wine, 2008 Era (a Bordeaux style blend) right from the cask. He dipped the wine thief into the hole at the top of the French Oak barrel and brought out some of this extraordinary wine. Words simply cannot describe it, so I will not try. I will simply say that when it is released in boxes of three bottles, it will be $450 per pack, but I actually think it is worth it. Remarkable wine, and only available in very limited quantities.Napa Valley is a special place. Not only did I taste incredible wines, just like I have done every other visit, but we had a great lunch in Yountville at Bistro Jeanty where our pooch was made to feel very welcome on the patio and provided a tasty marrow bone to lick and suck, while I had the best Salade Nicoise I have had in decades.
Another fantastic day. Definitely more fun than working!
So in returning to Napa I wanted to take a slightly different approach and explore the old and the new, and find out what has changed and what has stayed the same in this historic region.
What better place to start, therefore, than Napa Valley's first winery, Charles Krug, which was established in 1861? It is named after the Prussian immigrant who was likely the first European to recognize the potential of Napa Valley for growing grapes, and was acquired 67 years ago by the family whose name is, and probably will always be associated with American wines, Mondavi.
Peter Sr. and Robert Mondavi are the sons of Cesare Mondavi who was an Italian immigrant and purchased the Charles Krug Winery in 1943. The brothers worked at the winery, Peter as Vice President and Robert as GM until a bitter and well publicized feud split them apart, with Robert leaving the company and setting up his own winery down the valley, ostensibly out of spite. The family divisions have continued in some form to this day, but Charles Krug Winery is still very much controlled by the Peter Mondavi family (Peter Senior is in his 90s, Robert died in 2008), with Peter's sons Marc and Peter Jr. both taking active roles in its ongoing development and direction. In 2000, they embarked on a 10-year program to replant most of the vineyards they own (about 850 acres) and they have embraced the concepts of sustainable farming, following their grandfather's philosophy that if you treat the wine with respect it will show in the wine.
I was lucky to taste many of the current releases of Charles Krug yesterday, guided by Candace and Jim at the lovely, understated (by Napa standards) tasting room at the winery in St. Helena. I elected to taste only the wines that are available for general release, although they also have some reserve selections that are only available at the winery to visitors. Marc Mondavi was a presenter at last year's Kohler Food and Wine Experience and although I had an opportunity to meet with him, I was unable to attend the seminar he conducted. So the wines were quite a revelation! From 2010 Sauvignon Blanc and 2007 Zinfandel (there it is again!) made with grapes grown right at the winery, to 2009 Chardonnay and 2008 Pinot Noir from Carneros fruit, to the deeply rich, smoky 2008 Caberbet Sauvignon (made from Napa grapes) and red-fruit dominated Merot and finally the beguiling 2008 "Generations" a Bordeaux-style blend that is created and approved each year by "the family", these wines are indeed worthy of the heritage that the Mondavi family has created and the history that it has imparted in The Valley.
From the old, I moved to the new. Along Route 29, on the west side of the valley, lies so many wineries that it is almost intoxicating in itself. But I noticed a name that is relatively new and that I had not visited before, Alpha Omega. Only 5 years old, this is one of Napa's newest boutique wineries. It is a partnership between owners Robin Baggett (who also owns Tolosa Winery in San Luis Obispo) and Eric Sklar (a Napa grower with 30 years experience), together with Jean Hoefliger, a Swiss who has made wines for such exalted names as Bordeaux Chateau Lynch-Bages and Chateau Carbonnieux and South Africa's Meerlust, and renowned wine consultant/superstar, Frenchman, Michel Rolland. This unlikely menage a quatre is creating wines that are quite simply spectacular! I tasted four as part of their regular winery offering. The 2010 (new vintage) Sauvignon Blanc is made from grapes right outside the winery. These are the only grapes that actually are grown here as the flat valley was described to me as being almost like a swamp - not good for other grapes, but excellent for Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is an entrancing combination of Bordeaux-style SB, with roundness and fruit, combined with the higher acidity you would find in a Sancerre or a New Zealand example. Wonderful wine. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is a special wine, but at $84 a bottle it should be. It has highly extracted fruit, soft tannins and heady aromas that would be wonderful with red meats or game. The 2007 Proprietary Red is, to my palate, even more refined, but no less expensive at $86 per bottle. The company's tasting notes mention "black currant, oak, pine, milk chocolate, cigar box, raspberry, blueberry and jasmine with touches of rosemary and chalk" Wow! Honestly, these are the kind of things that put wine tasters off. How can all those aromas be present in ONE wine? Personally I think it is a little silly, however I do smell the characteristic cigar-box and some blackcurrant.
After the official tasting, the personable representative took me into the cellar to taste their signature wine, 2008 Era (a Bordeaux style blend) right from the cask. He dipped the wine thief into the hole at the top of the French Oak barrel and brought out some of this extraordinary wine. Words simply cannot describe it, so I will not try. I will simply say that when it is released in boxes of three bottles, it will be $450 per pack, but I actually think it is worth it. Remarkable wine, and only available in very limited quantities.Napa Valley is a special place. Not only did I taste incredible wines, just like I have done every other visit, but we had a great lunch in Yountville at Bistro Jeanty where our pooch was made to feel very welcome on the patio and provided a tasty marrow bone to lick and suck, while I had the best Salade Nicoise I have had in decades.
Another fantastic day. Definitely more fun than working!